The Crotto dei Platani in Brienno, on Lake Como, was built around age-old crotti, natural cavities that open up in the mountain, from the depths of which blows a constant stream of cold air, called the Sorèl, which has been used for centuries to preserve food and drinks. And the Crotto di Platani – what a curiosity! – has a real cellar, where it stores wines, which is “underground on the first floor,” since the ancient crotto is higher than the level of the road in front of the restaurant.