Once a tavern frequented by ‘vaccinari’ (butchers) from the old slaughterhouse of Rome, the famous ‘coda alla vaccinara’ (oxtail) was created here by great-grandmother Ferminia. An institution in Roman cuisine, with incredible cellars built into the shards of the 86 million amphorae, dating from Roman times, which form Monte Testaccio and which are now an Italian historical archaeological monument. Its illustrious diners include Starace, Einaudi, Prince Borromini, and the writer M.V. Montalban, who paid tribute to it in a novel. Run by the fifth generation of the same family.