{"id":26148,"date":"2014-09-17T09:25:39","date_gmt":"2014-09-17T07:25:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/2014-the-venues-and-the-inspiration\/"},"modified":"2026-09-24T14:46:36","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T12:46:36","slug":"2014-the-venues-and-the-inspiration","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/2014-the-venues-and-the-inspiration\/","title":{"rendered":"2014 \u2013 The places and the inspiration"},"content":{"rendered":"<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Ascoli Piceno<\/b>. It is said that the composer Pietro Mascagni began writing the opera *Lodoletta* whilst sitting at the tables of<b> Caff\u00e8 Meletti.<\/b> <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Bassano del Grappa (Vicenza)<\/b>. Grappa takes centre stage in <i>A Farewell to Arms<\/i>, in which Ernest Hemingway has his characters fortify themselves before battles \u2013 whether military or romantic \u2013 with copious amounts of drink. The writer discovered it, appreciated its effects and was inspired by the<b> Grapperia Nardini<\/b> on the famous Ponte degli Alpini, where he would often stop for a small glass, sitting right opposite along the wall, whilst he was stationed at Villa Ca\u2019 Erizzo on the banks of the Brenta, serving as a volunteer ambulance driver for the Red Cross during the First World War.  <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Bergamo. In the second half of the 1920s, the <b>Pasticceria Bar Cavour,<\/b> in the Upper Town, was one of the historic<b> <\/b>venues where vernacular poets and men of letters \u2013 the architects of the \u2018<i>Ducato di Piazza Pontida<\/i>\u2019 \u2013 would gather to compose verse, an institution founded in 1924 to safeguard Bergamo\u2019s cultural traditions, the creator of valuable anthologies of local poetry, and today a cultural association that promotes and disseminates poetry and theatre in the local dialect.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Bologna. <\/b>The playwright and poet Alfredo Testoni, author of the hugely successful 1905 play Il cardinale Lambertini and a regular at the <b>Panificio Pasticceria Paolo Atti &#038; Figli,<\/b> dedicated a poem to his friend Paolo Atti in honour of his tortellini, signed by \u2018Sgnera Cattareina\u2019 (Mrs Caterina), the famous protagonist of his much-loved humorous sonnets in the Bolognese dialect. The poem is included in the book *Bologna in cucina: ricette di famiglia dal 1880* (Bologna in the Kitchen: Family Recipes since 1880) by Beatrice Spagnoli, in the chapter on \u2018Zirud\u00e8le bolognesi (1900\u20132008)\u2019, a collection of poems and sonnets that famous dialect poets of the past and contemporary writers have dedicated to the establishment and the family, who have been at the helm for a century and a half. <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Castiglioncello<\/b> (Livorno). In 1962, the entire cast and crew of the famous film *Il sorpasso* stayed at the <b>Hotel Miramare<\/b>: here, every morning and every evening, they would discuss, refine and fine-tune the script, the actors\u2019 performances, the pacing and the camera angles before heading to the set.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Chiaramonte Gulfi (Ragusa)<\/b>. The journalist, writer and essayist Giuseppe Fava, who was murdered by the Mafia, left behind in his iconic newspaper <i>I Siciliani<\/i> a delicate travelogue from the 1980s chronicling his discovery of the \u2018king of sausages\u2019, recounting his encounter with Cavaliere La Terra and the delicacies and history of his <b>Trattoria Majore.<\/b><\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Chiavari (Genoa)<\/b>. The poet, journalist and playwright Vito Elio Petrucci, a champion and promoter of the Genoese dialect and culture, loved to spend time at the <b>Osteria Luchin, <\/b>where he would write and plan his popular television programme on the history of Genoa; in 1987, he dedicated a short poem to the restaurant\u2019s famous &#8220;farinata&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Cogne (Aosta)<\/b>. During the Second World War, the famous pianist Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli took refuge at the <b>Hotel Bellevue,<\/b> where he continued to hone his touch and interpretative finesse by playing the piano which is still used in the dining room today. <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Cortina d\u2019Ampezzo (Belluno).<\/b> In 1948, Ernest Hemingway stayed at the <b>Hotel de La Poste<\/b>. He knew Cortina well and loved it because he could write in peace; and he loved the hotel because the barman, Renato, would listen to him for hours. He stayed in room 107, which is now named after him. His wife Mary broke her ankle whilst skiing and spent a lot of time at the hotel; he was always in his room writing and did not want to be disturbed under any circumstances. Except, that is, to spend hours at the bar or rush off to meet Adriana Ivancich. <i>\u2018Across the River and Into the Trees\u2019<\/i> was taking shape. This was recounted in 2012 by the owner, Marisa Manaigo, during the Hemingway commemoration in Cortina.      <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Ferrara. <\/b>The poet and playwright Ludovico Ariosto, author of Orlando Furioso, pays tribute to the Hostaria del Chiuchiolino \u2013 now known as <b>Osteria Al Brindisi<\/b> \u2013 by mentioning it in his finest comedy, <i>La Lena <\/i>(1528), a \u2018romantic tale\u2019 with a happy ending set in Ferrara.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Florence.<\/b> Piazza della Repubblica \u2013 formerly Piazza Vittorio Emanuele \u2013 with its three famous caf\u00e9s, has been at the heart of our cultural history for half a century. Amidst the intellectual ferment that animated the renowned <b>Caff\u00e8 Giubbe Rosse<\/b> in the early 20th century, two avant-garde magazines were conceived. In 1908, Giuseppe Prezzolini and Giovanni Papini, with advice from Benedetto Croce, launched <i>\u2018La Voce\u2019,<\/i> one of the most important cultural and political magazines of the twentieth century, created to reach all intellectuals and renew the country\u2019s ruling class; it was published until 1916; in its pages, in 1910, Ardengo Soffici wrote his famous scathing review of the first Futurist art exhibition in Milan, provoking a reaction from Marinetti, Boccioni and Carr\u00e0, who tracked him down in Florence and assaulted him with a slap whilst he was sitting at the very same Giubbe Rosse in the company of his friend, the sculptor Medardo Rosso, causing pandemonium to break out across the entire square. Having left *La Voce*, Papini and Soffici planned and launched the literary magazine <i>Lacerba<\/i> in 1913; the magazine initially reconciled itself with Futurism and enthusiastically embraced the movement, only to break away from it controversially a year later. Whenever they wanted to work in peace, the editors of *La Voce* and later those of *Lacerba* would move across the road to <b>Caff\u00e8 Paszkowski<\/b>, whilst Prezzolini and his editors would often head to the nearby<b> Caff\u00e8 Gilli<\/b>, frequented by more \u2018well-behaved\u2019 people. Also at the Giubbe Rosse, in 1938, Alfonso Gatto and Vasco Pratolini launched the magazine<i> Campo di Marte<\/i>, edited by Enrico Vallecchi and featuring contributions from highly prestigious writers; it ran counter to fascist culture and lasted only a year, having been suspended by the regime\u2019s censors on the eve of the Second World War. The <b>Hotel Monna Lisa<\/b> in Borgo Pinti was, in the nineteenth century, the elegant mansion where the neoclassical sculptor Giovanni Dupr\u00e8 lived and had his studio: still owned by his descendants today, it is like a fascinating museum.      <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Gardone (Brescia).<\/b> At the Grand Hotel Gardone, Nobel Prize winner Paul Heyse wrote two short stories published in 1902 in <i>Novelle dal Lago di Garda <\/i>(Stories from Lake Garda), both of which are set in the hotel.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Genoa.<\/b> An entire letter from Giuseppe Verdi to his friend Count Opprandino Arrivabene, dated 6 January 1881, is devoted to the <b>Confetteria Romanengo:<\/b> \u2018Dear Arrivabene, I never for a moment intended to \u201crefute\u201d you. Living amongst these \u2018sweet treats\u2019, I had neve<strong>r realised that Romanengo knew how to season every sort of fruit so exquisitely.<\/strong> I was told this by some people in Paris to whom I had sent some of Romanengo\u2019s creations. Having made this discovery, I wanted to share it with you.\u201d Note the Maestro\u2019s slight slip-up, as he uses the term \u2018season\u2019 instead of \u2018candied\u2019.    Many recognise Confetteria Romanengo \u2013 which also has a historic branch on the elegant Via Roma \u2013 as one of the three mysterious protagonists of the song<span style=\"font-family: Calisto MT, serif;\"><i> \u2018Parlando del naufragio della London Valour\u2019<\/i><\/span><span style=\"font-family: Calisto MT, serif;\">,<\/span> from singer-songwriter Fabrizio De Andr\u00e8\u2019s 1978 album \u2018Rimini\u2019:<i> <\/i>\u201cThe pastry chef from Via Roma is coming down the stairs \/ every dozen steps he finds a hand to stamp on \/ he\u2019s got a toy whisk tucked under his tea dress\u201d.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Milan.<\/b> At Caff\u00e8 Campari, the predecessor of the <b>Camparino in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele<\/b>, the playwright and patriot Felice Cavallotti penned a few prophetic lines of poetry on 5 March 1898, the day before he died in a duel in Rome; the 27-year-old Umberto Boccioni, struck by a news story, immortalised the caf\u00e9\u2019s entrance in his famous Futurist masterpiece <i>Rissa in Galleria<\/i> (1910). The Verismo writer Gerolamo Rovetta, a keen observer and psychologist, found the inspiration for the characters in his 1894 novel <i>La baraonda <\/i>whilst frequenting the <b>Caff\u00e8 Cova<\/b>, which was then located next to La Scala Theatre.The contemporary philosopher and writer Franco Bolelli has his second studio at <b>Pasticceria Cucchi<\/b> and stops by every day to work at a table there; the famous watercolourist Giulio Falzoni, one of the greatest of the twentieth century, used to pop in here every day, often several times a day: for the last twenty years, right up until 1978, he lived on the top floor of the same building and regarded the caf\u00e9 as part of his painter\u2019s studio. <b>Bar Jamaica<\/b>, a legendary cultural hotbed of the 1950s and 1960s, frequented by the intellectuals who gravitated towards the Brera Academy of Fine Arts, with its diverse and ever-bustling clientele, inspired great photographers such as Ugo Mulas, Mario Dondero, Alfa Castaldi, Carlo Orsi, Uliano Lucas and Giancarlo Moroldo, who have left behind extraordinary records of the venue\u2019s regulars. In 1908, at the Ristorante Savini, Filippo Tommaso Marinetti \u2013 who lived in Via Senato \u2013 during lively and memorable after-dinner gatherings with his circle, which included Cinti, Russolo, Pratella, Buzzi, Boccioni, Carr\u00e0, launched <i>\u2018Futurist cuisine\u2019<\/i> and laid the groundwork for the early battles that led to the publication of the famous <i>\u2018Manifesto of Futurism\u2019<\/i>, which stunned Europe.    <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Montepulciano (Siena)<\/b>. The playwright and writer Luigi Pirandello enjoyed spending time at the<b> Caff\u00e8 Poliziano<\/b> in Montepulciano, where he went on holiday in the very early years of the 20th century, because it was his favourite spot for capturing, from the patrons, that expressiveness of spoken language which he incorporated into his characters\u2019 dialogue. Here he would take notes in one of his famous notebooks, veritable compendia of colloquial expressions and refined idioms. <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Naples<\/b>. In 1885, the renowned journalistic couple Edoardo Scarfoglio and his wife Matilde Serao \u2013 who in 1892 would go on to found the daily newspaper *Il Mattino*, a mainstay of Italian journalism \u2013 conceived and launched their first newspaper at the <b>Gran Caff\u00e8 Gambrinus:<\/b><i> \u2018Il Corriere di Roma\u2019<\/i>, which was more literary than journalistic in nature and contained articles on literary criticism, short stories and serialised novels, partly the result of collaborations with the men of letters who frequented the famous caf\u00e9 in Piazza Plebiscito. In 1892, whilst he was a young editor at the newly founded Neapolitan daily *Il Mattino*, Gabriele D\u2019Annunzio loved to spend time at the Caff\u00e8 Gambrinus, where the city\u2019s intellectual elite gathered. One day, whilst sitting at a table, he was playfully challenged by his fellow journalist and poet Ferdinando Russo \u2013 the author of famous songs \u2013 to compose a song in the Neapolitan dialect: the Vate, in the blink of an eye, handed him the lyrics to <i>\u2018A Vucchella\u2019,<\/i> which Russo kept until 1904, when he had them set to music by Maestro Francesco Paolo Tosti; the song became a hit for the Ricordi publishing house and was also recorded by the tenor Caruso. E. A. Mario, born Giovanni Ermete Gaeta, one of the greatest composers of Neapolitan songs and of the patriotic piece \u2018Leggenda del Piave\u2019 \u2013 which is almost a national anthem \u2013 loved to stop off from time to time and write his verses on the veranda of the<b> Ristorante La Bersagliera<\/b>, in the village of Santa Lucia, overlooking the small harbour of Borgo Marinari, where a plaque commemorates his immortal song <i>\u2018Santa Lucia luntana\u2019<\/i>, dedicated to the tragedy of emigration.   <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Padova. <\/b>On 1 July 1845, the first issue of the weekly magazine <i><b>Caff\u00e8 Pedrocchi<\/b><\/i> was published; it had been conceived at the tables of the Caff\u00e8 Pedrocchi by Antonio Berti, Jacopo Crescini and Guglielmo Stefani. It contained a poem by the poet Prati, *In riva all\u2019Adige* (\u2018On the Banks of the Adige\u2019), and the programme for the week. Amidst rhymes, satirical jibes at the Austrian police and the resulting suspensions of publication, it continued until 1848 and made a major contribution to the preparations for the Paduan uprising against Austria. In 1917, following the defeat at Caporetto, when the Italian Supreme Command and the French and British Commands moved to Padua, the Casino Pedrocchi Society, on the first floor of the Caff\u00e8, together with senior officers, welcomed correspondents from the Italian press, who wrote and sent news back to the country from there: among them were illustrious figures such as Antonio Baldini, Luigi Barzini, Arnaldo Fraccaroli and Renato Simoni. In 1962, the poet Corrado Govoni founded <i>\u2018Il Sestante letterario\u2019<\/i>, a bimonthly journal of literature and the arts, at the tables of the Pedrocchi.   <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Palermo. <\/b><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Richard Wagner completed <i>Parsifal<\/i> at the <b>Grand Hotel et Des Palmes<\/b>,<\/span><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> where he had been staying with his second wife, Cosima, and their children during the winter of 1881\u201382. Pierre-Auguste Renoir went to visit him the very day after he had finished writing it; he rushed back the following day and, in a 35-minute sitting, painted the famous portrait of the composer now housed at the Mus\u00e9e d\u2019Orsay in Paris, in which Wagner, jokingly, saw himself as looking like \u2018a Protestant pastor\u2019.<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Pisa. <\/b>The composer Giacomo Puccini was a friend of the Piegaja family, who owned the <b>Hotel Royal Victoria<\/b>, and he was a frequent visitor to their home, which was situated in a wing of the hotel: the grandmother of the current owners used to recount that, on one such occasion when she was a little girl, the Maestro took her to the piano and improvised a few notes for her, asking if she liked what he was composing: those notes would go on to become an aria from <i>Madame Butterfly<\/i>. At the<b> Caff\u00e8 dell\u2019Ussero<\/b>, Renato Fucini discovered his poetic streak; Giosu\u00e8 Carducci, after passing an exam at the Scuola Normale Superiore with distinction, rushed here and improvised a heroic-comic poem: \u2018The hero of the epic, whom I sang of a little and recited a little, was a personified Etruscan vase, who entered the Ussero and smashed the cups, the goblets, and such modern trifles\u2019. John Ruskin frequented the place and, in his <i>Diary<\/i>, left us the only description of the original sign, which depicted a soldier on a rearing horse; it was thrown into the Arno by the crowd when they took their revenge on anything that might remind them of Austro-Hungarian rule.  <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Rapallo (Genoa). In 1952, the American writer Thornton Wilder, winner of three Pulitzer Prizes, worked on the play <i>The Matchmaker<\/i> whilst staying at the <b>Excelsior Palace<\/b>; the play went on to run for 486 performances on Broadway.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\">Recco (Genoa). On his 1988 album La pianta del t\u00e8, the Genoese singer-songwriter Ivano Fossati publicly thanked the <b>Ristorante<\/b><b> \u00d6<\/b><b> Vittorio<\/b> for inspiring him; the American singer-songwriter and pianist Gregory Darling, who now lives in Recco, fell in love with the restaurant and filmed the music video for his biggest hit, <i>\u201cAngel of Mercy\u201d<\/i> (2006), there, using the piano that still stands in one of the dining rooms, and included a thank-you in his album<i> \u201cShell\u201d<\/i>.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Rimini.<\/b> The<b> Grand Hotel Rimini<\/b> began to capture the imagination of the film director Federico Fellini when he was still a young boy, watching it from behind the gates: he paid tribute to it by immortalising it in the film <i>Amarcord <\/i>and visiting it whenever he could.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Rome.<\/b> The <b>Antico Caff\u00e8 Greco <\/b>in Via Condotti: Casanova mentions it in his <i>Memoirs<\/i>; it inspired Ludwig Passini\u2019s watercolour <i>\u201cGerman Artists at the Caff\u00e8 Greco\u201d<\/i>, dated around 1855, now held at the Kunst-Halle in Hamburg; a plaque commemorates the fact that the exiled writer and playwright Nikolai Gogol wrote most of his 1842 novel <i>\u201cDead Souls\u201d<\/i> here; Guttuso immortalised it in his painting <i>\u201cCaff\u00e8 Greco\u201d<\/i>, housed at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum in Madrid, in which he depicts the regulars \u2013 De Chirico, Apollinaire, Buffalo Bill and Japanese tourists \u2013 symbolically united. The writer Manuel V\u00e1squez, inspired by the delicious recipe book of the <b>Ristorante Cecchino dal 1887<\/b>, has the protagonist of his 2004 book <i>Montalb\u00e1n Millennio \u2013 Pepe Cavalho on the Road to Kabul<\/i> recall it on page 24. The Polish writer Henryk Sienkiewicz stayed at the <b>Hotel d\u2019Inghilterra<\/b> in 1893, as a plaque on the fa\u00e7ade commemorates: it was his second visit to the capital and he certainly began to develop the idea that led him, two years later, to write the historical novel <i>Quo Vadis?<\/i>, set in the Rome of Nero, which earned him the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1905.  <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Sant\u2019Andrea in Percussina<\/b> (Florence). <b>The Albergaccio<\/b> was the home of Nicol\u00f2 Machiavelli, where he was placed under house arrest by the Medici on charges of conspiracy: it was here, in 1513, that he wrote <i>The Prince<\/i>, his famous treatise on political theory, which he subsequently dedicated to Lorenzo de\u2019 Medici in the hope of regaining the post of secretary to the Republic that he had held prior to his exile. <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Sirmione (Brescia).<\/b> In 1930, the English writer Naomi Jacob moved to Sirmione for health reasons and to find inspiration. Mrs Micky, as she was affectionately known, often worked at the <b>Caff\u00e8 Grande Italia<\/b> and formed a warm and lasting friendship with the owners\u2019 family, the Pagiaro family, which she recounted in her autobiography <i>&#8220;Me. A Chronicle about Other People&#8221;.<\/i> <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Sorrento (Naples)<\/b>. The French writer Marguerite Yourcenar wrote much of her 1938 novel <i>Colpo di grazia <\/i>at the <b>Hotel Bellevue Syrene<\/b>; a work that struck readers with its ruthlessness and lack of tenderness in depicting the love of a woman who destroys herself for a man incapable of love. In 1876, Wagner decided that he would resume and complete <i>Parsifal<\/i> whilst staying at the <b>Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria<\/b>, having been deeply moved by the mysticism he experienced in the church of the Carmelite Convent, which stands near the hotel; on that occasion, after a few meetings, his intellectual rapport with the philosopher and friend Friedrich Nietzsche broke down; Nietzsche, who was staying at a nearby guesthouse, began to accuse Wagner of having succumbed to religious rhetoric. Also at the <b>Excelsior Vittoria<\/b>, in 1985, whilst staying in the luxurious suite once occupied by the tenor Enrico Caruso, the singer Lucio Dalla composed his masterpiece <i>\u2018Caruso\u2019<\/i> in one go. James Fenimore Cooper, author of *The Last of the Mohicans*, conceived the short story <i>The Water Witch <\/i>in the summer of 1829 during a three-month stay at Villa Tasso in the <b>Hotel Imperial Tramontano<\/b>, in a study with a splendid view of Naples; the American writer Harriet Beecher Stowe, known for her masterpiece *Uncle Tom\u2019s Cabin*, found inspiration for the short story <i>Agnese di Sorrento<\/i>; the Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen stayed here for six months in 1881 and completed his bourgeois drama <i>Ghosts <\/i>here.   <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Stresa (Verbania)<\/b>. Hemingway stayed at the <b>Grand Hotel Des Iles Borrom\u00e9es<\/b> at the end of the Great War, when he was very young and convalescing after being wounded at Fossalta di Piave, where he had volunteered as a Red Cross ambulance driver, and then again in 1948: the hotel and the lake captivated him to such an extent that he immortalised them in his masterpiece <i>A Farewell to Arms<\/i>, part of which was written on the hotel\u2019s terrace. His room, number 106, is now the highly sought-after Hemingway Suite. <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Turin.<\/b> \u201cLadies and young ladies \/ with gloveless fingers \/ choose their pastries. How \/ they revert to being little girls!\u201d The wealthy and elegant Crepuscular poet Guido Gozzano loved to linger at the <b>Caff\u00e8 Baratti and Milano<\/b> in Piazza Castello, and it was here that he composed the rhyming jest <i>\u201cLe golose\u201d<\/i>, which pokes fun at the childish behaviour of elegant ladies when faced with the pleasure of a sweet treat. Giacomo Casanova specifically mentions the <b>Caff\u00e8 Ristorante del<\/b><b> Cambio<\/b> in his famous <i>\u201cMemoirs\u201d<\/i>. Mario Soldati describes it affectionately in the short story <i>\u201cI passi sulla neve\u201d<\/i> (\u201cFootsteps in the Snow\u201d), published in <i>\u201cStorie di spettri\u201d<\/i> (\u201cGhost Stories\u201d) in 1962; he also sets several pages of his 1981 novel <i>\u201cL\u2019incendio\u201d <\/i>(\u201cThe Fire\u201d) at the Cambio. Lalla Romano describes it as \u201ca magical place, especially in winter\u201d in a passage from <i>\u201cUn sogno del nord\u201d<\/i> (1989). The famous nineteenth-century epigrammatist Antonio Baratta, an eccentric and destitute man, spent his nights sleeping and writing his verses in Turin\u2019s caf\u00e9s; he loved the<b> Caff\u00e8 Fiorio<\/b> and featured it in a witty epigram, dedicated to the death of one of his noble patrons, who spent his days in the caf\u00e9 simply \u2018digesting\u2019: \u2018May the earth be light upon Count Onorio \/ Whose death, alas! has left a great void \/ Upon the benches of the Caff\u00e8 Fiorio\u2019. The comedian Erminio Macario, whenever he was in Turin, was very fond of stopping off at <b>Caff\u00e8 Mulassano<\/b>, because from the windows he could watch people passing beneath the arcades of Piazza Castello and draw amusing inspiration for his characters from real life.       The troubled writer Cesare Pavese loved to spend time and write at <b>Caff\u00e8 Platti,<\/b> where he would also meet with the publisher Giulio Einaudi, with whose publishing house he collaborated for many years. The journalist, philosopher and politician Antonio Gramsci, founder of the Italian Communist Party, would, between 1916 and 1920, retreat to his table at <b>Caff\u00e8 San Carlo<\/b> every evening after a theatre premiere, where he would write his \u2018critical\u2019 piece for <i>Il Grido del Popolo<\/i> and the Piedmontese newspaper<i> L\u2019Avanti!<\/i> It was here, in 1919, that he also conceived the idea of founding the socialist cultural journal <i>L\u2019Ordine Nuovo<\/i>. The journalist and writer Mario Gromo, in a memorable passage from his 1929 <i>Guida sentimentale,<\/i> captured a beautiful image of the San Carlo as it was when he frequented it assiduously before the bombings of the Second World War.  <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Trieste<\/b> is perhaps the Italian city that still best preserves the creative pleasure of stopping off at a caf\u00e9. A charming interior scene at <b>Caff\u00e8 Tommaseo <\/b>was painted by the Giulian artist Vittorio Bolaffio, who was a regular there during the early decades of the 20th century; <b> <\/b>between the two world wars, this was the venue for the brilliant gatherings of the poet Virgilio Giotti and the writers Giani Stuparich and Pierantonio Quarantotti Gambini; in the final years of the last century, it was common to find the writer Fulvio Tomizza working at a table here. When he lived in Barriera Vecchia, from 1910 to 1912, James Joyce would take a few steps and pop into <b>Pasticceria Pirona<\/b> every day; it was just across the road and served excellent liqueurs and fine wines: this helped him through the troubled period of writing <em>A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man,<\/em> <em>the manuscript<\/em> of which <em>ended up in the stove in a moment of despair and was saved by his sister Eileen. It was his friend Alessandro Francini Bruni, editor of the Piccolo Sera, who introduced Alberto Pirona to the Irish writer.<\/em> <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Venice.<\/b> The French writer Alain Buisine, an expert on the city,<b> <\/b>In his 1996 work Ciels de Tiepolo, he recounts waking up at the <b>Hotel La Calcina<\/b> and quotes the poet Henri Fran\u00e7ois Joseph de R\u00e9gnier, author of<i> L\u2019Altana ou la Vie v\u00e9nitienne<\/i>; For thirty years, La Calcina was also a place of residence and inspiration for the French writer, essayist and philosopher Philippe Sollers, author, amongst other works, of <i>La F\u00eate \u00e0 Venise<\/i> (1991) and <i>Dictionnaire amoureux de Venise<\/i> (2004). The free-spirited French writer George Sand \u2013 born Amantine Lucile Dupin \u2013 in her <i>Lettres d\u2019un voyageur<\/i>, describes the romantic sunset over the lagoon that she could see from the small balcony of her corner room at the <b>Hotel Danieli <\/b>\u2013 now the highly sought-after room number 10 \u2013 where, in 1834, she lived out her tempestuous affair with the aristocratic poet and writer Alfred de Musset. Carlo Goldoni, who had been a regular at the <b>Caff\u00e8 Florian<\/b> \u2013 nestled within the Procuratie Nuove \u2013 since he was a boy, would observe the patrons and follow their multitude of stories, gossip, scandals and tales, drawing characters and satirical notes for his comedies, foremost among them <i>La Bottega del caff\u00e8<\/i>. Gasparo Gozzi used to frequent the Florian to gather news, gossip and controversies, but also to gather opinions for the theatre reviews and critiques he wrote himself and published in his <i>Gazzetta veneta <\/i>\u2013 an example of modern journalism which, between 1760 and 1761, appeared on Wednesdays and Saturdays and was both edited and sold right there at the Florian. At the <b>Gritti Palace<\/b>, after a stop at the terrace restaurant and a bottle of Valpolicella, Ernest Hemingway would go up one floor and, in his suite, write parts of <i>Across the River and Into the Trees<\/i>, inspired by his relationship with the noblewoman Adriana Ivancich. In 1980, it was she who revealed to *People* that they had seen each other for the last time on the terrace of the Gritti in 1955, where Hemingway was moved to tears.      During the six periods he spent in Venice to rest, from 1858 to 1883, Richard Wagner enjoyed visiting <b>Caff\u00e8 Lavena<\/b> in St Mark\u2019s Square with increasing frequency, where he had his own table, both outside and inside. It was here, during his first stay in Venice, in the tranquillity of the upper loggia, that he completed the love duet from the second act of Tristano e Isotta. Later, he also worked on the lengthy and arduous composition of <i>Parsifal<\/i> on several occasions. Tchaikovsky worked on the orchestration of his <i>\u2018Symphony No. 4\u2019<\/i> whilst staying at the Hotel Beau Rivage in December 1877 (now the <b>Hotel Londra Palace<\/b>) and completed the first three movements. He had named the symphony<i> \u2018Do<\/i> <i>Leoni\u2019<\/i> (the two lions) in honour of the lion of St Mark and the English rampant lion. A plaque commemorates the great composer, and room 106, which he occupied, is now the \u2018Tchaikovsky Suite\u2019. Il poeta vittoriano Robert Browning, celebre per suoi monologhi drammatici capaci di rivelare anche il carattere di chi parla, durante le amate permanenze a Venezia frequent\u00f2 e ricord\u00f2 nelle sue opere la vivace osteria del <b>Lido<\/b>, allora in aperta campagna, antenata dell\u2019<b>Albergo Quattro Fontane<\/b>. Lo scrittore e critico letterario americano Henry James era innamorato di Venezia e vi sost\u00f2 pi\u00f9 volte: nel 1881, in una pensione sulla Riva degli Schiavoni, oggi <b>Hotel Wildner,<\/b> tra il chiacchiericcio e il passare delle navi, port\u00f2 a termine il suo romanzo pi\u00f9 noto,<i> \u201cRitratto di Signora\u201d.<\/i>      <\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><b>Villafranca (Verona).<\/b> In 1923, the philosopher Giuseppe Rensi \u2013 whose vast body of thought has yet to be fully explored \u2013 wrote<i> \u2018The Irrational, Work, Love\u2019 <\/i>whilst sitting at one of the tables at <b>Caff\u00e8 Fantoni<\/b>; the caf\u00e9 still holds the manuscript.<\/p>\n<p align=\"JUSTIFY\"><span lang=\"en-GB\"><b>New York (United States).<\/b><\/span> Igor Stravinsky, who was very fond of women, turned up one evening at the <b>Barbetta Restaurant <\/b>accompanied by the charming Rita Hayworth and, feeling highly inspired, composed and jotted down a melody on the guest book on the spot. The American poet Edna St. Vincent Millay, winner of the Pulitzer Prize in 1923, who in the early 1920s lived in New York\u2019s Greenwich Village \u2013 \u2018very, very poor, but very, very happy\u2019 \u2013 including at the legendary 75\u00bd Bedford Street, the narrowest house in the city, was a regular at<b> Caff\u00e8 Reggio<\/b> with her trusty notebook. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ascoli Piceno. It is said that the composer Pietro Mascagni began writing the opera *Lodoletta* whilst sitting at the tables of Caff\u00e8 Meletti. Bassano del Grappa (Vicenza). Grappa takes centre stage in A Farewell to Arms, in which Ernest Hemingway has his characters fortify themselves&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":11256,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1917],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-26148","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-the-guides-to-historic-places"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26148","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=26148"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26148\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":26162,"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26148\/revisions\/26162"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/11256"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=26148"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=26148"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/localistorici.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=26148"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}